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New Puppy Advice

So you’ve got a beautiful new Golden Retriever Puppy; now what?  A Golden Retriever puppy is a commitment for the life of the dog that may last 14 years but you need to start off right.  Your new fur-baby has instincts, yes,  but all other things must be trained.  Your puppy relies on you for everything.  Food, Water, vaccinations, love, healthcare and training are all provided by you.  It sounds daunting but it’s really not as long as you accept the challenge and enjoy your loving new addition to the family.  You should start by reading general information on Golden Retrievers in my “Caring For Golden Retrievers” page. 

Vaccinations

Your puppy should come to you with her first round of vaccinations.  Typically vaccinations are given at 4 to 8 weeks then again at 12 weeks and finally at 16 weeks.  Your vet may have a slightly different schedule so work with them but vaccinate you MUST.  Only the rabies vaccine is required by Texas law but all recommended vaccines should be given.  They prevent things like rabies, parvo, canine influenza and much more.  At Texas TLC Goldens we require all new puppy parents agree in writing to keep vaccines up-to-date for the live of the dog; it’s just that important.

In the southern United States you should pay special attention to parvo.  The parvovirus is more common on warmer states but can be found in all 50 states.  The disease is very contagious and the effects are debilitating at best and often results in death. 

The vaccinations for parvo require a series of three shots in a new puppy and again annually for life to remain protected.  That said, your new fur-baby will not be fully vaccinated against parvo until his final round of shots.  From a new puppy perspective this means that you must work hard to prevent exposure to this easily transmitted disease until the entire series of vaccinations are complete.  Until that happens you should keep your puppy away from anywhere that unknown dogs have been. 

Until fully vaccinated, dog parks should be completely avoided and contact with dogs that you are not SURE are vaccinated is unwise.  Avoid roadside rest areas, truck stops, airport pet relief areas and any place unknown dogs have likely been.  Places that wild dogs may have been are dangerous as wild dogs are the most common carriers.  If you take your new puppy to retail establishments (which is really good for their socialization), we suggest putting them in the shopping basket rather than the floor.

Enough about parvo for now.  Read about it and know that in domestic dogs it’s not all that common but it absolutely does happen and can be deadly.  The challenge is that even though it is relatively rate, it’s so contagious and deadly that you cannot afford to take chances.  Breeders are especially cautious since puppies are by definition un-vaccinated and one infection in the litter can wipe out the litter and or be extremely expensive and require extensive disinfecting cleanup to prevent future infections.

Feeding

Puppies need different food than adults.  With adults you need high protein but balanced food.  For puppies, too much protien can make them grow to quickly and possibly cause skeletal or joint problems.  A higher percentage of carbohydrates is desired to provide needed energy and a different mix of other ingredients to balance out what a growing puppy needs is also needed.  Also be sure to get “large breed” puppy food as Goldens need different food from smaller dogs.   Puppies should continue to have puppy food until at least 12 months old, 18 months may be better.

If you feed on a schedule, you should feed puppies at least 3 times per day.  They have small stomachs and cannot eat all that much in a single sitting so more frequent feeding is called for.  If you free feed as we’ve historically done, just keep an eye on the volume consumed and watch their weight.

Be sure to select a really good quality food.  We recommend kibble, not wet as kibble is MUCH better for their teeth.  We also foods from major manufacturers that have scientific labs and publish statistics and testing.  After much research, we chose Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Adult Savor for our adults and Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy Focus for our puppies.  Purina is the largest pet manufacturer out there and has extensive published testing.  (no we were not paid for this plug)  There are higher rated foods but they tend to be exponentially more expensive.  We found our chosen foods to be of really good quality and a great mix of ingredients and cost effective.   Note that even Purina ahs has less desirable foods (Dog Chow and anything “Grain Free” for example) so do your own research and get really good cost/effective food from a reputable manufacturer based on research, not cool commercials.  We do not recommend “raw food” diets (a current fad) as they don’t consistently contain the proper mix of nutrients and run a very real risk of poisoning your fur-baby.

Puppies should have access to good clean water at all times when awake.  It’s OK to put the water up at bed time but be sure to put it back down for them first thing when you wake up and keep it fresh.

Socialize!!

Properly socializing your Golden Retriever can be the difference in a well adjusted dog and a dog that is afraid of everything.  Socialization is exposing your puppy to as many new sounds, textures, smells, people, dogs, cats, horses, cattle, cars, trucks, riding in cars, shopping carts and everything else in our environment as much as possible.  As dogs age, new things can make them fearful if they don’t know what they are or have never experienced them.  The absolute best time to get most socialization done is well before 6 months old.  It can be done at most any age but they are much more impressionable and fearless when young.

For more details, read my article Socializing Your Puppy.

Puppy Training Basics

Training is the most often neglected part of new puppy ownership, the lack of which is one of the highest contributors to dissatisfaction with pets.  I recommend attending  at least two series’ of obedience classes with your puppy starting at around 4 to 6 months of age but don’t wait for the classes to start on your own.  Training does not need to be difficult but it does need to be consistent and it’s pretty much never too early to start.  We at Texas TLC Goldens will begin basic potty training starting at 3 or 4 weeks old.  At that age it takes more to get solid behavior but we’ll give you a little head start. 

Important:  NEVER hit your dog and try you best to never yell at them.  Golden Retrievers are emotional dogs and are very treat / praise motivated.  Using negative techniques are counter productive at best and can make them shut down at worst.  Reward them for good behavior and do that consistently to achieve the best results.

You can train basic things with little or no extra work if you are consistent.  Just remember to use a key word (like “yes”) or a clicker from the very beginning to signify they did something right and reward them EVERY time they do something good at least with praise and often with healthy treats.    Also be aware that puppies under 6 months old have the attention span of a gnat (not really but it will seem like it).  Keep your training sessions frequent but short (like maybe 5 minutes each) at first and slowly expand the times as they age and show more maturity.

Potty Training

Potty Training / House Training is probably the single most important thing you can train you dog to do.  This is so important I wrote an entire article on it. Essentially ANY dog can be trained to go outside to do their business so don’t let impatience and frustration get the better of you.  Read “Potty Training Your Puppy” and get started with consistent training on day one!

Sit

Every time they sit, reward them and use the word sit in the praise. 

Golden Retriever
Harley and River around 3 months old

Every time the sit when you asked them to sit, reward them more.  Puppies don’t have the attention span to sit for long but sit they will and just reward them every time. 

At first it matters little if they sit on their own, if they do it reward them WHILE sitting.  You can add the command as you go.  Every time you decide to love on your puppy, make then sit first.  Praise and loving should be a reward and not just expected behavior.

Leash Training

You REALLY want to get this down pat and EARLY.  As Golden Retrievers grow they become quite strong and will pull you like a mule if you let them.  Start when they are young and very treat motivated.  Put a lightweight leash on them and make them sit on your left side.  Image result for image golden leash trainingLet them have a treat then show them you have another and make them watch the treat saying “Watch me”.  Now say a walk command like “walk” or “heal” or some other word of your choosing (but be consistent) then step off with your left foot.  They will usually move with you as a puppy but keep them focused on the treat.  If they start to pull, show them the treat and encourage them to stay on your left side.  If they don’t cooperate, make them sit and start over.  When you stop they should sit on your left side and then they can get the treat.  do this every day, several times and you should see great results.  Once they have it down pat, start weaning them off the treat by letting them smell the treat but not see it (keep it in your enclosed hand).  The first few times you do this, give them the treat when they do things correctly.  After that start only praising them more and more with no treat.  Gradually make it more and more without the treat giving only praise.  Eventually they will no longer require the treat.

The suggested training plan above is designed for young puppies as they are not yet big enough nor motivated enough to try and drag you.  If your dog is more than a few months old and is already pulling, google leash training and use one of the many methods espoused on the web.  They main things I’ll tell you about that situation is that you should NEVER allow your dog to pull you,  learn how to deal with it and stop that behavior EVERY time.  If you ever allow them to pull you and go where they want, you are TRAINING them to pull and risking damage to their throats.  Additionally we are not fans of “training” collars of almost any kind.  We use “martindale” collars that contract when pulled but we carefully size them so as not to choke when they pull tight.  The nice thing about these collars is they can be loose and comfortable around the neck but when you need to restrain your pup, they contract small enough that they can’t slip it off their head.  Remember also that you pup’s neck will grow.  Use caution that their own growth does not cause their collar to choke them.

Stay

Stay is a little harder than sit but it’s a key skill.  If you do not effectively train this skill your puppy will rush the door and get out and cause all sorts of other headaches in time.  golden-retriever-puppy-sit-and-stay-headerThis skill is best trained with treats.  Start by making them sit the tell them to stay and back up one step.  If they stay, treat and praise them.  If they break, reset and go again.  Young puppies may not stay long but reward them for even a few seconds.  As they get the idea, move further and further away from them and slowly expect them to stay longer.  Ideally you should be able to make them stay for up to two minutes even if you are walking around them.  This may take a while to achieve but it’s a goal you should set.

No Jumping!

Related imageGolden Retrievers can get wildly exuberant and will tend to jump up on people when they get excited.  This is especially true if they have not seen you in a while and worse, they will try to do it to guests.  Know that Golden Retrievers grow to 55-80 pounds and jumping on people can unintentionally hurt the some folks and is often irritating to others.  Even if you like it, chances are others will not.

The best way to train this out of them coincides with “sit”.  Train them that they NEVER get rewards and loving if they are not calm and sitting.  Never indulge over excited behavior by encouraging it and loving on them. If you get excited and let them go crazy while you love on them, you are TRAINING them to act this way.

This training has the side benefit of reducing “Separation Anxiety” to some extent.  If your fur-baby expects an exciting return where you are very excited to see them and get them all worked up, they will expect it every time you or anyone else walks in the door and stress if you don’t walk back in right away.  If you walk in the door and they get excited, don’t make a big deal of it and calmly walk right past them and ignore them; pushing them down and use a command like “off” if they jump on you.  When they calm down and you can make the sit and stay sitting, THEN you can love on them.

Conclusion

It is critical that you properly train your puppy and it’s never too early to start.  Golden Retrievers WANT to please you but you need to train them with what makes you happy.  It is always best to start when they are very young before they develop bad habits.    Only use positive reinforcement for training, never negative.  Start on the very fist day and so some amount of it every day afterwards.  Be very consistent on the commands used and your treating/reward behavior.  Training can often be done throughout the course of the day for many things without organized “training sessions” but when you do train them, keep the sessions short when they are young and expect short attention spans.  The pup should EARN loving and/or treats (with something as simple as sitting if nothing else).  Never give a treat without a successful action, ever.

About the Authors
Bryan and Terri Curry

Bryan and Terri Curry love all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  They have had dogs for all but 6 months of their long lives and all have lived happy and much longer than average.  Bryan and Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

 

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Ichthyosis (ICH or ICT) in Golden Retrievers

We got Emma‘s DNA test results back from Embark and it turns out she is a “carrier” for Ichthyosis-A  (commonly referred to as ICH, ICT, ICT-A or ICH-A).  That said, some explanation is needed.

Let’s get the important stuff dealt with first.  Being a carrier for ICH is relatively common and completely harmless for your pet with absolutely no symptoms whatsoever.  It only becomes an issue if you plan to use that dog as a breeder and as I’ll explain below, it is completely harmless as long as your breeder (hopefully you choose us) pays attention to the genetics of the dog’s breeding partner.

I’ll use three different terms repeatedly throughout the article and it’s important you understand their meanings.

  • Carrier = no presented symptoms due to the mutation – ever
  • Affected = will experience symptoms
  • Clear = no mutated ICH gene
What is Ichthiosis (ICH)?

Ichthyosis-A is the genetic variant that affects Golden Retrievers and is an autosomal recessive genetic mutation that affects the skin of Golden Retrievers and a few other dog breeds. The mutation prevents the outer layer of the epidermis (skin) from forming properly, resulting in skin that becomes darkened and thick, with excessive flaking.  I considered grabbing some pictures but the internet is filled with worst case scenario pics and the vast majority of cases are not worst case.  That said I saw no benefit in presenting a horror show.

Ichthyosis should not be confused with Seborrhea which actually IS dandruff.  ICH is a genetic condition and can, in some cases, be much more severe than dandruff and is completely preventable as you will see below.

ICH is very common in Golden Retrievers.  The exact percentage of this mutation in Goldens is not known but I’ve seen studies in Europe that showed 45% as carriers and almost 30% as affected in their sample.  In the United States I suspect the numbers are lower due to differing opinions on handling the condition on this side of the pond but I have no studies backing that up.

The name Ichthyosis comes from the Greek word for fish because of the resemblance to fish scales resulting from this condition if your dog is “affected” (not “carrier”).  A common slang name for the condition is “Fish Scale Disease”.  The most common symptom is flaking of the skin similar to dandruff in humans.  It is also possible to have hardening and darkening of the skin.  Which symptom experienced and it’s individual severity varies and can become worse or better over time based on hormone levels and stress.  The visible symptoms in an affected dog can present themselves at any stage of life but most often are seen before the puppy’s first birthday.  The ONLY way to confirm ICH is via a simple, inexpensive DNA test.  If you Golden gets flaky skin, it is not necessarily ICH.

In general, active ICH is not dangerous to your Golden Retrievers health.  It is mostly cosmetic but can be uncomfortable and/or itchy for your pet.  The symptoms can be managed to some extent with the proper shampoos and treatments but there is no cure.

Is it wise to breed a Golden Retriever that has ICH?

In general, it is completely safe to breed a Golden Retriever that is an ICH carrier with some simple precautions.  In some very narrow cases, some breeders do breed an ICH affected dog but there needs to be a really good reason for the betterment of the breed conformation. 

In Europe it is fairly common to breed affected dogs and many breeders just brush it off as “dandruff”.  In America, we are typically more careful on this issue but it’s still a thing. 

Editorial

Ironically, the American Kennel Club does not even require DNA testing on Golden Retrievers for it’s “AKC Bred with HEART” program.  I find that sad since DNA testing is cheap, easy and accurate.  I believe in today’s world there is no excuse for providing ICH affected puppies when that puppy will be a sterilized pet and not a conformance championship competitor and even then, it should be avoided if possible. “Carrier” is OK if handled properly when breeding; “Affected”, no so much.

How can breeders manage Ichthyosis?

The trick for preventing affected status is to know the DNA status of both breeding parents and only breed proper combinations.  The following set of bullets outline how to determine how the ICH gene can be inherited based on the genes of both parents (source: First Foundation for Ichthyosis and related skin types):

Note:  the % chances listed below are per puppy, not per litter.

  • Parents are Clear + Clear
    • All puppies are clear
  • Parents are Clear + Affected
    • All puppies are carriers
  • Parents are Carrier + Clear
    • Puppies have a 50% chance of being a Carrier
    • Puppies have a 50% chance of being Clear
  • Parents are Carrier + Carrier
    • Puppies have a 25% chance of being Clear
    • Puppies have a 50% chance of being a Carrier
    • Puppies have a 25% chance of being Affected
  • Parents are Carrier + Affected
    • Puppies have a 50% chance of being Carrier
    • Puppies have a 50% chance of being Affected
  • Parents are Affected + Affected
    • All puppies are affected
Image credit: www.thekennelclub.org.uk
Conclusion

ICH-A is a completely manageable genetic mutation that is very common in Golden Retrievers.  Since the American Kennel Club and European kennel clubs have not condemned it, Ichthyosis remains a thing.  It is completely preventable with responsible breeding practices but unfortunately is still common.

Ichthyosis is not deadly nor typically bad for the dog’s health but it can be uncomfortable and can detract from the good looks of the dog’s coat in some cases.  If a Golden Retriever is a “Carrier”, there are absolutely no health risks nor symptoms.  If breeding an ICH-A “carrier”, the breeder should simply insist the mate is tested and “Clear” of ICH-A.  The puppies produced will have a 50% chance of being a carrier but that matters not at all if the puppies will be sold with limited registration never breed.  Even if sold with full registration where breeding is probable, producing a puppy that is a “carrier” is not evil as long and breeders pays careful attention to it.

If you care about ICH (and in my opinion you should), it is important that you only buy puppies from breeders that can show DNA tests from BOTH parents.  If both parents are “Clear” then you are set.  If one is a “Carrier” and the other “Clear”, you are still set since none of the puppies will be “affected”.  If either parent is “affected”, you need to pay much closer attention and I’d recommend requiring a DNA test on the puppy to assure it is not “affected” before you buy it .

About the Author

Bryan Curry loves all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  He has had dogs for all but 6 months of his long life and all have lived happy and much longer than average lives.  Bryan and his wife Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

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What color will my Golden Retriever puppy grow into?

This is a short article with information that can be important when selecting a Golden Retriever puppy if their final coat color is important to you.  Many people select a puppy based on what the puppy’s body coloring looks like at 4 to 6 weeks old and that would be a mistake if the final coat coloring matters.

Spoiler alert:  Just check the ears once hair starts really growing on them..

Now that I’ve given the spoiler, I’ll use Harley as an example.

When Harley was a tiny pup, she looked like this:

Golden Retriever
Tiny puppy Harley

When she was around 5 or 6 weeks old, she looked like this:

Golden Retriever
Harley hamming for the camera

Now look at those ears and realize that Harley looks like this as an adult:

Golden Retriever
Miss Harley Quinn

The ear color may not be exactly their adult color but it’s typically close and is the best possible indicator so don’t be distracted by the puppy’s body color….  Concentrate on the ears!

About the Authors
Bryan and Terri Curry

Bryan and Terri Curry love all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  They have had dogs for all but 6 months of their long lives and all have lived happy and much longer than average.  Bryan and Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

 

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Harley has at least 9 pups ready to come out

Terri took Harley to the vet to get an X-Ray in order to have a puppy count.  As it turns out, Harley didn’t want to sit still enough so the pictures were blurry.  The vet was able to study them and tell us there were at least 9 pups in there but it’s possible there are more!

Harley is due this Friday but the vet tells us it may be earlier.  Stay tuned!!

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Why Canine DNA Testing is Important

Most people that go to a breeder to get a pure bred puppy do so because they want to have a clue what the dog will be like when it grows up.  They also do it because they perceive the dog is less likely to have some unexpected ailment as it ages.  The truth is this: there is no way to guarantee no problems but a purebred dog that is properly vetted really makes the odds much better.  The key here is to assure the breeder properly tests their breeding animals to give you the best chances.  Just because a dog is purebred and registered does not help you in this area.  ALL dog breeds have potential issues as they grow that will not necessarily be visible as a puppy and the specific problems vary somewhat by breed.  While no breeder can guarantee perfect health or the life of the dog, smart puppy buyers will hedge their bets and REQUIRE testing of the parents for known genetic issues in the breed to dramatically reduce the chances of problems as the puppy matures.

Embark dog dna test for breed id and healthThere are many other things that go into what qualifies a breeder as a “Good Quality breeder” so for this article I’ll narrow the down the discussion.  Good Quality Breeders of any purebred dog should test the genetics of all their sires and dams and publish the results.   The two main areas of concern are genetic defects (DNA) and hip/elbow health (which have a genetic component).  I’ve discussed hip/elbow already in my article: “Canine Hip / Elbow Dysplasia” so in this article I will concentrate on genetics specifically for the Golden Retriever breed.

It is entirely possible that you can buy an untested purebred Golden Retriever that will live a long, healthy and happy life but why would you roll the dice?   If a dog is “clear” for all the components I list below, they are clear.  That means they will not experience any of those specific issues in their lifetime.  Unlike Canine Hip / Elbow Dysplasia which has a genetic component and graded on a scale from X-rays, the following potential issues are either true or false and not expensive/difficult to test.

Usual disclaimer:  The following information is based on our experience and extensive research.  As always, you should do your own research and consult with your veterinarian if you have any questions or concerns.

The following is a list and description of genetic defects common to the Golden Retriever breed.

Degenerative Myelopathy (DM)

This particular genetic issue is not all that common in the Golden Retriever breed but does happen.  It is not part of the standard genetic “panel” for the our breed in some genetics labs but we at Texas TLC Goldens still test for it.

The Animal Genetics laboratory has this to say about DM:

Degenerative Myelopathy (DM) is a progressive neurological disorder that affects the spinal cord of dogs. Dogs that have inherited two defective copies will experience a breakdown of the cells responsible for sending and receiving signals from the brain, resulting in neurological symptoms.

This genetic malady typically starts very late in the dog’s life and usually starts with a weakening of the back legs that eventually leads to the inability to walk.  If not contained it can then work it’s way through the body and cause other issues such as bladder control and could eventually make the front legs unusable.

Muscular Dystrophy (MD)

Also referred to as “Muscular Dystrophy in Golden Retrievers (GRMD).  The Animal Genetics Laboratory has this to say about this genetic malady:

GRMD is a mutation of the dystrophin gene that causes a deficiency of dystrophin proteins in Golden Retrievers. The lack of dystrophin proteins leads to the progressive degeneration of skeletal and cardiac muscles. The disease is similar to the human disease, muscular dystrophy.

MD presents itself with difficulty walking and/or swallowing and typically starts at 6 to 8 weeks of age.  Life expectancy is roughly 6 months for affected pups.

Because this mutation is linked to the X chromosome, only male dogs are actually affected by it for female dogs can be a “carrier” and transmit the defect.  Because a single parent can transmit the defect and cause the symptoms in any or all of it’s pups, any sire or dam with this defect should never be bred.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA, GR-PRA1 & GR-PRA2)

This is a severe defect that can affect the eyes of many different breeds.    You will see them listed commonly as PRCD-PRA.  Two golden Retriever specific variants have also been identified (GR-PRA1 and GR-PRA2).  While all three defects have the same or similar effects, they must be individually tested for.

Animal Genetics Laboratory has this to say about these defects:

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) is a category of genetic mutations that cause vision loss and blindness. Photoreceptor cells in the retina begin to degenerate, typically progressing from a loss of night vision to complete blindness.

GR-PRA1 and GR-PRA2 are inherited in an “autosomal recessive manner”.  What this means is that it takes defective genes transmitted from BOTH parents for the puppy to experience symptoms which is referred to as “affected”.  It is possible that the pups will be “carriers” with a single copy of the gene and pass on the defect later but they themselves will not be “affected” by the defect. 

Ichthyosis-A (ICH or ICT)

ICH is a defect that can cause very scaly skin and hair loss.  We have seen statistics that 30% to 60% of all Golden Retrievers have this defect.  If there is any good news here it is that the defect is not fatal and it requires both parents to have the defect to actually make puppies “affected” (show symptoms).  It is fairly common for Golden Retrievers to be a “carrier” and is common practice for breeders to carefully breed a sire or dam that is a carrier. A sire or dam that is “affected” should not be bred in our opinion.  As far as we can tell this defect is specific to the Golden Retriever breed but do your own research.

Animal Genetic Laboratory has this to say about ICH:

Ichthyosis is an autosomal recessive genetic mutation that affects the skin of Golden Retrievers. The mutation prevents the outer layer of the epidermis from forming properly, resulting in skin that becomes darkened and thick and flakes excessively.

It is important that you verify the testing of BOTH parents.  If only one parent is a carrier and you are not a breeder then you are fine as long as you spay or neuter your pet.  As a breeder, it’s still manageable but requires special attention to breeding pairs.  We at Texas TLC Goldens have thus far been able to assure that none of our breeding dogs do not have this defect but have not completely ruled out the possibility of dealing with it in the future since it is so very common in the breed.

For more information ICH, read the more detailed article I wrote on the subject.

Afterword

There are many different possible genetic defects that are possible in dogs but the list above are the most common in Golden Retrievers.  The good news is they are easy and inexpensive to check and ANY breeder that provides good quality pups will test for them all and publish the results.

  Testing is cheap, accurate and easy to do so we can think of no excuse for not providing them to customers.  We don’t understand why ALL breeding dogs are not tested but it’s possible that the breeder can be sure their breeding dogs are clear “by parentage”.  In that case you really should check the tests of both parents of their breeding dog and not take their word for it.  For example:  We know Emma is completely clear “by parentage” but we will actually test her before we breed her. 

Do your research and know what you are getting.  After all, you will have that dog for many years and why else would you want to spend the money to get a purebred dog?

About the Authors
Bryan and Terri Curry

Bryan and Terri Curry love all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  They have had dogs for all but 6 months of their long lives and all have lived happy and much longer than average.  Bryan and Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

 

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Please consider sharing links to our blog posts if you find them interesting.  It is a simple thing to do and sharing links not only spreads what we hope is good information, it helps our site.

If you are a webmaster and would like to post this article in it’s entirety, please contact us.

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Harley update 2/23/2019

Yesterday was a good day. 

We took Harley to the vet to do an ultrasound in order to confirm pregnancy and it is confirmed!  We are VERY excited.  We do not know how many puppies there are as it’s just too soon to tell. 

We counted at least 6 but there are almost certainly more.  We plan to do an X-ray to get a better count somewhere in the 3rd week of March but for now, it’s time to start getting excited!

We are fully aware that many on the list will not get puppies this time around and we are sincerely sorry for that but at least the process has begun and we will be doing this again, and again…  😉

Pure and simple math says she should deliver pups on or about Wednesday March 27th but Mother Nature can vary that by a few days.

Harley is doing fine.  She’s more clingy and loving than she’s ever been but we enjoy that.  Her appetite is definitely increased but she’s eating for many now and she’s taking prenatal vitamins twice every day.  She’s gained 3 lbs since breeding and the vet says that’s good.

Keep an eye on Facebook and your email for updates!!

If you’d like to see the video of the ultrasound, I’ve posted it on Facebook HERE.

Happy Days!!

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Why Dogs Eat Grass

Image result for eat grassIf you have had dogs for a while, you have almost certainly observed them eating grass at one time or another.  Many of the popular reasons for this are essentially urban legend but there are tons of opinions out there, many from people that might actually know what they are talking about so they are difficult to ignore for most people.  I’ve tried to list a few of the popular reasons people believe they do it and explained the thought behind it and end the article with actual science.

Dogs are NOT carnivores

Well… not completely.  Unlike cats, dogs are omnivores meaning they eat meat AND plants but they tend to lean towards meat and protein.  This is the reason that all properly formulated dog foods will contain carbs and plant material. It is also one of the reasons that custom made or boutique diets of nearly  pure protein are a bad thing.

It is believed by some that our dog’s ancestors ate the ENTIRE carcass of their kills including the stomachs and the prey were mostly herbivores meaning those stomachs were full of grass and other greens.  They posit that this practice rounded out the diet.  Modern wild dogs have often been observed eating fruits, berries and grass.

It’s also been observed that when some dogs that eat a lot of grass and then have their diet changed to higher fiber mixes stop eating grass.

Some have suggested that dogs eat grass to settle their stomach or treat worms or improve digestion.  Again, none of this is proven (well.. except maybe the worm thing – read on) and is most all educated speculation but some of it seems logical to some extent.

Given these observations, some think it is reasonable to believe your dog just wants to balance out their diet.

They eat to throw up or because they are sick

This idea seems very popular for some reason but has not been anything close to proven.  WebMD says that less than 25% of dogs that eat grass ever throw up from it.  They further say that owners report less than 10% of dogs who eat grass seem sick before they do it.

More likely, the dog throws up because the grass they are eating is not properly chewed and gets stuck in and/or tickles their throats and throwing up is just an instinctive reaction.

The dog is bored

This idea actually has a little merit in many cases.  Dogs put things in their mouths, it’s what they do.  If they get bored, they chew on things and eat.  Some people have observed that if their dog is eat grass, then does a lot of exercise like chasing balls or Frisbee, they stop eating grass.

There actually was one scientific study done on the subject

Stanley Coren with Psychology Today  found an actual study performed that included quite a lot of actual science. 

The research was conducted at the University of California, Davis, by Karen Sueda, Benjamin Hart and Kelly Cliff and published in the journal Applied Animal Behavior Science

I’ve not read the actual study but Dr Coren summarized the study by saying that most all of the popular reasons I’ve listed above were completely “debunked”.   In essence, domestic dogs do not eat grass because they are sick, or have an upset stomach or to balance out their diet.  While the study did not find a provable reason for the behavior, their best guess is that it is done to help clean out parasites from the digestive track in wild dogs.  They further speculate that domestic dogs do it out of instinct handed down from their ancestors even though domestic dogs are typically much less affected by parasites due to modern medical care and food sources.

While this explanation is the one I tend to believe, it is also possible that domestic dogs just like to eat grass.

Is eating grass harmful to dogs?

Usually not but  WebMD has this to say on the subject:

Although most experts agree that grazing itself isn’t harmful, one thing to keep in mind is that certain herbicides and pesticides used on lawns can be quite toxic, especially if ingested. Additionally, a number of common house and garden plants are toxic, which could lead to problems if your dog munches on them along with the lawn.

Remember that while you may know what toxic chemicals may be on YOUR grass, how do you know about other places?  Err on the side or caution and know what your dog is eating.

Sago Palm

That last bit about toxic plants is important for you to know about. 

Oleander

Did you know that Aloe plants many flowers and Sago Palms are toxic to dogs?  There are many different plants that are bad for them. 

Azaleas
daffodils

A good reference for toxic plants can be found on the ASPCA website.

Summary

While there are many theories and urban legends about why dogs eat grass, the only scientific study I could find referenced seemed to debunk most all of them and suggested domestic dogs just eat grass out of ancestral instinct.  It is also possible that the dogs just like grass.  Chemicals on the grass could be dangerous for your dog and some plants are just toxic so know what your dog is eating.

About the Author

Bryan Curry loves all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  He has had dogs for all but 6 months of his long life and all have lived happy and much longer than average lives.  Bryan and his wife Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

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The Importance of Fenced Yards for Dogs

Emma – 19 Months

I like many people, believed for years that fences were only important to keep your dog contained.  While this is true, it is not the only good reason to make sure your fur baby has a secure fence.  Terri and I have in fact been successful with no fence before (Harley and River‘s first 2 years of life for example) but it is hard, risky and requires a LOT of attention and work to keep your pup safe.  In the article below I’ll attempt to line out the risks involved that I am aware of with not having a good fence and maybe a few things you can do to mitigate the risk. 

To be clear, people have been successfully raising dogs without fences longer than America has existed.  It absolutely can be done but there are risks and you should be fully aware of those risks and be prepared to mitigate those risks.  Having a fence is probably the single most effective physical thing you can do for your dog(s) to keep them safe.

As always, this article is based on our extensive personal experiences and research.  You should also do your own research and/or consult your veterinarian before reaching any final conclusions.

Keeping them contained

Yes, keeping your dog contained is the primary reason for having a fence.  It can keep them out of the dangerous streets and prevent them from becoming irritants to the neighbors.  In general dogs (especially Golden Retrievers) LOVE to play and run.  When they play and run, they have no concept of danger from the road or property boundaries.  This especially troubling for hunting and shepherd breeds since when they get a scent or see something that looks like it should be chased, they often focus on that to the exclusion of all else and potentially run for miles. Even Golden Retrievers are prone to this.  Our Harley loved chasing deer before we built our 5′ non-climbable wire fence in our immediate back yard.  Our local deer know her and are in fact playing with her but it becomes dangerous as she is FAST and could get off the property or injure herself in the forest.  In our case, we are on the back side of almost 3 acres of heavily wooded land so the road is a bit of a hike but she’s fast enough to do it.

If something happens (fireworks for example) that panics your dog, they can run for miles in a wide-eyed panic.  Boundaries can to some extent be trained but even then, they will often forget in the heat of the moment.  A properly sized and secure fence (see below) is the best deterrent to these issues.

Wild and Other Animals
making a leap
Coyote and a 4′ fence

Do you live in a suburb or city and think you don’t have to worry about wild animals?  Think again.  Deer, Coyotes and other wild animals are feeling the pressure of human expansion and encroaching more and more into suburban and urban areas.  Feral dogs (domestic dogs gone wild) will join up in packs and pose some scary risks – scarier even than coyotes in some cases.  In our case, we live in the country and have massive amounts of deer and other wild animals.  Your neighbor’s pets may even pose a risk since you really don’t know in most cases if they are all vaccinated or prone to attack other animals.

Other animals pose several risks.  They are often carriers of dangerous parasites and deadly diseases that can be transferred to or infect your dog. 

Aside for the physical risk of meat eating wild animals, allowing a coyote (for example) to even walk through your yard poses a very real risk of infecting your not-yet-fully-vaccinated puppy with the deadly Parvo virus for example. 

Golden Retriever
What…. are… those??

Those beautiful and seemingly harmless deer are covered in fleas and ticks and are commonly carriers of  Giardia and other parasites which they leave behind (pun intended) in their scat (puppies LOVE eating deer scat).   In the fall when deer are in “Rut”, bucks get aggressive at times and their antlers are weapons at that point.  In the spring when doe’s have babies, they are very defensive of their children and their hooves can be deadly. 

Feral Dog Pack
Feral Dog Pack

Neighborhood or feral dogs pose both physical and infectious / parasite risk (although the infections are the biggest risk to not-yet-fully-vaccinated puppies).  Image result for images dog chase deerWild animals can lure your dog on a chase that takes them to dangerous places or make them become hopelessly lost.  Deer are notorious for this.  They may be running out of fear or actually playing with your pup but the effect is the same.

Wild dogs are VERY often infected with the venereal disease called Brucelosis.  While sex is the primary transmitter, it can also be transferred by urine or simply sniffing the privates of an infected dog or drinking water tainted with infected urine or postpartum fluid secreted by infected females.

One last issue (and yes this has happened to us):  Wild animals are not selective where they die. 

Look what I got mom!

If a deer (for example) dies somewhere within a mile or so of your home, you dog will know it after they begin to decay.  Almost all dogs are drawn to animal corpses and will go chew on them, maybe even eat them.  This is expected behavior, not a sign of a behavioral problem in your dog.  It is your job to prevent it happening.  Those corpses are nasty, rotten, covered in all kinds of bad things and your dog will likely bring back trophies.  Fences prevent this entirely as long as the wild animal did not jump into your yard before passing.

These are but a few examples; use your imagination and do research but unknown animals around your pups are a very real risk.

Fences are Convenient

Most dogs need exercise; especially active working breeds like Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers and Border Collies.  If you do not have a safe back yard for them to run an play in, you will need to jog or bike with them on a very regular basis or take them to dog parks after they are fully vaccinated.  It’s much simpler to have a back yard to let them run and play in.  Even playing fetch is much safer with a fence.

Potty training is much easier with a proper fenced yard of your own.  Your puppy will need to go outside a LOT during training and using a leash to “walk” them takes longer to train than just letting them go out back.  It is much less likely that your yard is infected with parasites and disease than anywhere else. 

A word of caution here:  If you just moved into an existing home with a fenced yard, make sure you know who the previous owners were or if they had dogs.  Parasites and Parvo can stay troublesome in the soil for a very long time.  It is possible to treat the ground but it often kills the grass so do your research.

So What is a Secure and Proper Fence?

This bit will concentrate on effectiveness, not your personal preferences.  There are many fencing materials to choose from that may affect the visual effect on your property.  I will not discuss that here and those things are a personal choice and beyond the scope of what I’m trying to communicate.  

The specific fence you choose will depend on many factors some of which include:

  • Dog breed and size
  • Dog attitude
  • Neighborhood restrictions
  • Budget
  • Prevalence of wild animals

Height

The height of your fence is very important but specific requirements will vary. Note that the height of your fence is not just to keep your dog in but also to keep other animals out.  Coyote, deer and large feral dogs can easily jump over a 4′ fence for example.  If your desires included keeping out wild animals, go with a 5′ to 6′ fence.  5′ will keep most canine species out and 6′ will keep almost all of them out.  Either of these will discourage deer (use 8′ if you want to keep ALL deer out).  Keep this in mind as you evaluate your specific circumstances.

Climbing Dog
Dog climbing hurricane fence enclosure

Try to use some form of “non-climb” fence as the most common way for pups to get over a fence is jumping part of the way a literally climbing the rest of the way.  Wooden fences are very hard to climb but it can be done if they can hook their paws in the “dog-eared” tops of the fence.   Hurricane fence is not all that hard to climb since the layout of the wire gives convenient footholds for the pooch.  Wire mesh “non-climb” fences have openings that are narrow and tall.  this configuration is hard for most breeds to negotiate since the taller opening makes it very hard to get the “next” step up.

Small breeds are the easiest to fence in.  If you have a small breed like a small poodle and live in an urban area, a 4′ fence may do what you need.  Remember though that smaller breeds fit through smaller holes or can dig out easier and a 4′ fence is easy for wild animals and feral dogs to get over.

If you have a larger breed like a Golden Retriever or any mid sized jumping breed like a Border Collie, consider 5′.  If your dog is really active and loves jumping a lot, you may need 6′.  Our German Shepherd mix Gandalf that we had fenced for over half his life could get over a 6′ wooden fence when he was younger and really motivated so taller is better.

Secure

A tall fence means little if it has holes or loose fence slats, easy to dig under or is made of wood and your dog is very motivated to chew.   Our Aussie mix Lexi for example suffered from separation anxiety and chewed her way through a wooden fence several times during her long 17.6 year life. 

Holes and loose or missing slats are easy to remedy:  FIX THEM.  Be sure to check your gates as well as they tend to be the places where gaps occur most often.  Be sure to also look for gaps at the bottom of the fence or gate that your pup could squeeze through.

If your dog suffered from a high level of separation anxiety and/or is an extreme chewer, consider a hurricane or non-climbable mesh fence to prevent chewing their way out.  If you have an existing wood fence you can line the lower parts with thicker wood.  You can also put up an electrified wire down low (be sure to use one that is dog safe).  We did this for Lexi since she was so very persistent and it was very effective.  Even when it was powered off, our dogs avoided the fence.  Be warned that these wires require maintenance and can be rendered ineffective by tall grass and weeds.

If your fence is easy to dig under there are a few things you can do.  You could line the problem areas with large rocks (5 – 10lbs)   Image result for images dog dig under fenceThis can be decorative and if the dog tries to dig under the rocks, they simply fall down into the hole they dig.  You could also try a or a xeriscape border of medium sized rocks (rocks big enough to be hard for your dog to move), bricks or pavers.  It’s also possible to bury 2×10 treated boards in problem areas as dogs seldom dig further than 10″ deep to tunnel out.  This can hide your efforts and be more attractive since they would be mostly underground but requires a LOT more work than rocks to install and over the years will rot.  The electric fence wire referenced above will often work as well if you keep the wire low enough.

Afterword

We at Texas TLC Goldens do not (as of this writing) refuse to sell our puppies to families that do not have a fence.  We allow it because we have personally been successful in the past doing it but recognize that it requires careful, constant and fully informed effort to keep the pups safe; it is not easy.  We expect any applicant to describe in detail how they will handle their pups without a fence and encourage ALL of our puppy parents to get a home with a fence and/or build one as soon as humanly possible.  Another temporary solution for puppies if you have a yard but no fence is to put up a temporary fenced enclosure (dog run) that you know is clean and healthy for them to eliminate in.  If after a few litters we have too many bad experiences with puppy parents without fences, we may change the policy but for now we are trying it; hopefully this article will help.

About the Authors
Bryan and Terri Curry

Bryan and Terri Curry love all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  They have had dogs for all but 6 months of their long lives and all have lived happy and much longer than average.  Bryan and Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

 

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Fixed waiting list and other tables for mobile users

Much to my embarrassment I just discovered that viewing the waiting list and other tables on mobile devices was almost unusable (Thanks for the heads up Michelle).  This was especially troublesome since around 65% of our website visitors use phones and tablets. 

I have corrected this with a new “responsive” tables plugin and your experience should be MUCH better now.  There is only so much I can do with the smaller screens when using tables but at least now it’s possible to make sense of it on tablet and smaller screens.  The new table plugin also allows searching, sorting and the ability to view more (or less) of or the entire list in a single view so this change is win-win.

As of this writing I have used tables in two places.  Please check them out from the links below and let us know your thoughts.

Puppy Waiting List

English Creme Golden Retrievers vs American Golden Retrievers

Thank you for your patience while we do our best to make this site a better place to visit.  If any of you find other pages that are just uncomfortable, please let us know!

Bryan

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Canine Hip / Elbow Dysplasia

Hip and Elbow Dysplasia is a common hereditary skeletal defect found in most large breed dogs (including Golden Retrievers) and giant breed dogs although it is occasionally found in smaller breeds.  If affected your dog may experience discomfort (best case) or complete lack of use of one or more limbs (worse case).  While not all dogs in the higher risk breeds are noticeably affected, most will experience some amount of it in their geriatric years.  Dogs tend to be stoic and don’t show minor pain or discomfort typically but we at Texas TLC Goldens know from experience that it can be debilitating in the geriatric years.  Of the many dogs we’ve owned, only one was noticeably affected (Aussie mix: Lexi) but it was a horrible experience and was eventually what ended her at 17 years, 7 months of age.

Disclaimer:  We at Texas TLC Goldens are not veterinarians nor trained experts.  The information contained in the article is based on our painful personal experience and extensive research.  While be believe our words to be accurate, you should do your own research and consult your veterinarian for expert information. 

What is Dysplasia?

Image result for image canine dysplasiaDysplasia is a malformation of the joints in the hips and elbows.  It causes the joints to not fit as well as we wish causing excessive wear on the joint and triggers accelerated osteoarthritis.  Hips are typically more affected since they support more weight but elbows can also be a problem.  It is incredibly rare for a large or giant breed dog to have zero dysplasia so measuring the amount becomes a really important thing.

What are the symptoms?

Image result for image canine dysplasiaIt’s possible for puppies to start showing signs as young as 4 months old.  It is more likely to appear in their older years as Osteoarthritis combines with Dysplasia to accelerate the condition.  In extreme cases (like our Lexi in the last year of life), complete loss of the use of limbs is possible.

The pethealthnetwork.com lists these possible symptoms for the hips:

“Bunny-hopping” or swaying gait
Weakness in one or both hind legs
Pain when touched in hip or pelvis area
A change in behavior: reluctance to rise/difficulty rising, unwillingness to play or climb stairs, exercise intolerance, reduced activity levels
Audible clicking sound coming from hips while walking
Shrinking of hind leg muscles (atrophy)

What can I do?

Related imageKnow the parents.  There is no way to completely prevent the issue as the severity of the condition is almost always inherited from the parents.  Knowing the parents is the single most important thing you can do to try and prevent issues but is not an absolute guarantee.  The best bet to begin with is to choose responsible breeders that test and openly publish test results.  Texas TLC Goldens policy is to never breed an Golden Retriever that is not rated OFA “Normal” or better on both hips and elbows ir if they are at or below the PennHIP mean score.  We used OFA for Harley but has since been using PennHIP.  Either is acceptable and depending on circumstances at the time, we might use either one but there are pro’s and con’s to both.

The industry standard test for canine hip and elbow dysplasia is administered by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) and has been around for a very long time.  It is reasonably accurate for dogs over 24 months old but is still subjective and is based on a single hip X-RAY, usually taken without anesthesia.  There is instruction available for vets concerning taking OFA X-RAYS but I am unaware of any certification requirement as of this writing.  The evaluation and grading of the X-RAYS themselves is performed by experts at OFA.  You should look for results in both hips and elbows of “Normal”, “Good” or “Excellent” (note that “Excellent” is exceedingly rare based on the benchmark OFA uses).  OFA will evaluate tests before the dog is 24 months old but will only certify the joint condition after 2 years old since that is the age where the dog is considered fully mature physically and because it is harder to visually view a puppy’s X-RAY and form an opinion..  OFA publishes the results online the ask the breeder for a link to the results so that you can verify.  You can also search the parents in the OFA database based on name, AKC registration number and other criteria.

The PennHip tests cost us $500 per dog after much shopping around and is much more expensive than OFA testing but is also completely objective and more accurate.  It is based on three different X-RAYS, taken under anesthesia by trained and certified Veterinarians and then actually measured for objectivity.  PennHip claims accurate testing any time after 4 months of age but we recommend a minimum of 6 months old.  PennHIP results are harder to interpret since they don’t use the fuzzy “Good, fair, normal, excellent” descriptions.  They instead use a “Distraction Index” (DI) fraction to measure the “Tightness” of the joint and each hip gets it’s own score.  A huge database has been kept for all tests over the years and accurate averages for each breed are known.  Any score that is lower than the breed average is considered acceptable for breeding dogs.  As of this writing, the average (mean) DI score for Golden Retrievers is .54.

There is no objective way to compare specific ratings between OFA and PennHIP since the tests are so very different and because of the margin for human error in OFA testing. 

Figure 2 below came from a very good document written in 2009 by Simon Verge, DMV who was also a breeder.  The thing to note in figure 2 is the WIDE disparity of DI Ranges compared to the OFA categories.  The DI is objective while OFA is subjective.  Both are valid, but PennHIPP is considered more accurate since it is an objective test using math and measurements.  Note that Figure 2 compares tests for Burmese Mountain Dogs but that breed is VERY similar to the Golden Retriever as it relates to Hip Dysplasia.

Comparison of hip results for 143 Bermese Mountain Dogs over the age of 2 who all had both OFA and PennHIP testing done.
Courtesy www.hautbois.ca

Feed your puppy properly.  Be sure to get a good quality commercial food that is specifically designed for large breed dogs.  The correct food can regulate the puppy’s growth properly.  Growing too fast or too large can dramatically affect the joints. 

The American Kennel Club has this to say on the subject:

Slowing down these breeds’ growth allows their joints to develop without putting too much strain on them, helping to prevent problems down the line.

We feed our puppies Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Focus Dry Dog Food but it’s not the only choice out there.  Do your own research but avoid home made diets, boutique foods, table scraps and fad foods (like grain free).

You should also control your dog’s weight for their entire life.  An overweight dog puts substantially more stress on the joints.  Golden Retrievers tend to overeat so you, as the human parent in control, should control this and feed a really good, healthy diet using good quality and scientifically proven commercial foods in the proper amounts.  Most people apparently misunderstand what healthy weight actually looks like so consider reading the article I wrote on the subject.

Supplements like Glucosamine  are safe, help slow progression and in some cases help recover active joint problems to some extent.  If you use this supplement we suggest adding to to food to make regular usage simple.  Some commercial dog food’s actually include this supplement.  We started giving it to Lexi during the last 3 years of her life since her food at the time did not include it and she lived to 17 years, 7 months.  This supplement does not guarantee no problems but it does seem to help somewhat. 

Moderate certain physical activities while puppies grow.  OK so this one is the hardest.  Excessive running and hard turns on hard surfaces like concrete or tile floors or hard packed dirt cause repetitive impacts to the joints while growing and can affect how they fit in their older years.  Also avoid excessive jumping, especially from heights for the same reason.  These things are very hard to do with Golden Retrievers since they are so very energetic and excitable but do your best.  If you must throw a ball for them as we do, try to make the throws short and on grass while they are young.  Try to prevent your puppy from jumping off the back of the couch (yes, they will try to do this) or truck tailgates.  Agility training is fun but hard on their joints.  If you plan to do this before 2 years old, try to moderate the jumping and tight turns but frankly, that is VERY hard to do in this case.  You get the picture I hope..  The goal here is to moderate the behavior, not stop all their (and your) fun.

Summary

Canine hip and elbow dysplasia is a thing and should be something you care about.  The single biggest thing you can do to increase your chances of a good skeletal life for your new puppy is to KNOW THE PARENTS since genetics is the biggest contributor.  Feeding a proper diet is very important.  Supplements and moderating physical activities that can aggravate the problem can help.  As always, consult your veterinarian.

About the Authors
Bryan and Terri Curry

Bryan and Terri Curry love all dogs in general, especially Golden Retrievers.  They have had dogs for all but 6 months of their long lives and all have lived happy and much longer than average.  Bryan and Terri are co-owners of Texas TLC Goldens; a small responsible breeder producing high quality Golden Retriever puppies.

 

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Please consider sharing links to our blog posts if you find them interesting.  It is a simple thing to do and sharing links not only spreads what we hope is good information, it helps our site.

If you are a webmaster and would like to post this article in it’s entirety, please contact us.

Thanks!!! 

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